Friday, June 23, 2006

Progress

Is progress possible in a place like Nigeria? That is what we often wonder.

Prejudice. You know it's happening when you start to make generalizations about a people group. Well, I'm finding myself saying "they" more and more -- I really hate it and try to avoid it, but there are definite patterns of behavior in the Nigerian population.

Take corruption -- it so permeates every level of society that people expect to be cheated. They lie because they're sure the other guy is lying to them. I witness it every day on the camp. For instance, a guy who works in the facilities department who openly professes to be a serious christian told a flat-out lie to a new resident. I was standing there and knew the truth. You see, he said that they were getting her phone line installed that afternoon. But I had already gotten involved with the IT people because there weren't any phone lines available and we were coming up with an alternative. This guy knew nothing about that because, honestly, we didn't include him in the situation because he's so worthless -- nothing he touches ever gets done. I was working on it while he just made promises and had done nothing. I said nothing. But, the new resident knew the truth, too, so now she already doubts anything a Nigerian says to her -- and she's only been here a week!! They make promises that they have no intention of fulfilling.

Take the trashy conditions. Maintenance is a foreign concept. So, buildings that are only 6 months old look like they've been around for 60 years. On this one, though, we have some hope. Here in Abuja, where we are right now (I'm writing from our hotel room) -- there are nicely designed buildings, fresh paint, repaired streets, ... and -- this one I can't stop talking about -- there's no trash on the roadsides. None. Other than in the camp, everywhere else we've been you can't walk without stepping on muddy trash -- food, papers, plastic, human waste, ...

But here in Abuja -- wow, the edges of the roads are clean and there's green beauty everywhere!!! OK, there are reasons the city looks so good -- and that relates back to corruption, unfortunately. It's the country 's capital, built out of nowhere in the 70s. (It took about twenty years to move the capital here, but the buildings didn't decay in the meantime.) The Federal gov't just pushed all of the villages in the area out and built a well-planned city. Any dignitaries from other parts of the world who visit Nigeria stay in Abuja. The oh-so-corrupt government has a lot of money to make things look "westernized" and they use every naira!! The hotel we're in is as nice as most we've stayed in in Paris or anywhere. It was built in the 70s but, hey, retro is in -- so the big mirrors, orange walls, square bathrooms fixtures, ... way cool!
Anyway, visitors to Abuja are quite impressed with the progress of the nation. Unfortunately, it's not the nation ...

Which leads to another issue here -- image. Everyone is about making good impressions, being in the know, being able to "out fox" others, etc. Twice while Jeri's been in the car with me, Prince has had trouble with the police. One time, they were just harrassing him, hoping to get a dash (money given to those who deserve nothing but are driving you crazy by either begging in your face or harassing you, if they have the power to do so). They tried to take air out of a tire while talking with him so that we wouldn't be able to leave. He outsmarted them and kept up the image that he was not afraid of them, he was in control, they shouldn't mess with him. In reality he was scared out of his wits -- but because image is everything he wouldn't even admit it to Jeri and me. The second incident, he really did violate a traffic law but because no one really expects to have to obey the laws (another issue here!) he didn't really see it as disobeying. So, he fought the police over that one, too. Acted really brave. Even boldly handed them his driver's license. Jeri and I were afraid they wouldn't give it back to him and then we didn't know what we'd do. But, as it turns out, what he gave them was only a copy that was laminated to look real. He keeps his real license hidden away because he doesn't want to hassle with replacing it when the police take it and keep it.

I could go on and on ...

So, is the problem with failed attempts to make progress a problem of low expectations? ("No one can do anything so why try?") Is it about personal comfort? ("This works for me so why fuss?") Is it a matter of tribalism? ("MY people are fine, the problem is with THOSE people!") I don't really know. But, I'm telling you -- sometimes it drives us NUTS!!!!!

I just read an interesting comment in a book about Nigeria -- the writer, a Nigerian, was talking about all of the contradictions -- what we would call oxymorons. He mentioned "civil service" and said that those folks are uncivil and don't provide any service. Mmmm ... I felt validated with this and many other comments he made until I realized he'd written the book in 1966. Grrrrrr ... 40 years ... so much for progress!!!!

But, we're finding out good ways to experience the best of Nigeria -- we will be going to a village, with escorts of course -- so much for "low profile!!" That has great potential. And I'm starting to work on some excursions for the residents -- day trips to watch weavers at work, weekend trips to a beach, day trips to a game reserve, ... I'm convinced that a lot of the problems on the camp could be resolved with a different perspective. So, I think getting out to see great places in the country will help. And then, the other approach is charity work. We're working on getting some things lined up for fall for volunteering in some schools. Some of the griping among the gals is just due to boredom. And we would realize how good we have it if we saw how the average Nigerian lives.

Getting out of the camp helps break the boredom but the other negatives outside the walls are too high a price to pay for some of the gals so they never go out. A downward spiral. One gal is manic depressive, to boot! One gal has been "grounded" by her husband and can't leave the house for an indefinite length of time. One gal was in tears because of the criticism she was getting from the other gals. Many leave on holidays, soon. That will help everyone, I think!!!!

But, all in all, I still really love this place. It helps to laugh at it and not take it too seriously. And it helps if I have no expectations for anything, anyone, any plans, etc. I know, some of you are laughing at that thought!! Because, you know, that has always been a great struggle for me -- the goal setting/expect-perfection person that I am! So, it's ok to laugh. I think God is laughing, too. He is a gentle but persistent teacher!!!! Maybe He wants progress in me and not in my circumstances!!! :-)

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